EN ROUTE TO LES ARCS: Megeve

Get the first flight to Geneva and you can be on the slopes at Megeve by mid morning.  La Princesse gondola, right at the entrance to the town, is barely 60 minutes from the airport.  Which makes it a great stop-off en route to Les Arcs.  You can continue up the valley, passing other skiing opportunities at Megeve Rochebrune and L'Espace Diamante (including Crest Voland) and join the main road at Albertville.

There is free parking outside La Princesse, as well as a couple of ski shops.  The lift takes you into the heart of the skiing.  Although it does not feel Tignes-Like altitude-wise (the top station is 2,350m), there are certainly some areas that feel "haute montagne" alongside the lower areas of tree-lined runs.

It's a huge ski area and so you can only scratch the surface with a 4 hour ski pass.  We pottered around the L'Epaule area, getting mildly lost in the St Nicolas de Veroce sector, by-passing La Folie Douce and ending up at a very nice lunch spot by the Les Communailles lift.  

Our only gripe is the piste signage which rather assumes you already have a good grasp of the resort's geography.  

La Princesse gondola

SUMMER IN THE MOUNTAINS: Round-up

Some stories from the mountains this summer:

Mont Blanc: The Italian side, as seen from Les Arcs

The dangers of Mont Blanc: 4 die over the weekend, but meanwhile an American climber takes his children up the mountain who duly encounter an avalanche: more here. (Via The Independent)

"An unsubtle game of brinkmanship": Verbier and its neighbouring villages have fallen out over revenue sharing which means that the 4 Valleys are is no more (at least temporarily).  (Via PlanetSki)

Still on lift politics, they've been talking about linking Les Contamines and Megeve for 30 years or more. But the new Mayor des Contamines is not keen at all, and seems more interested in linking the resort with the Espace Diamant (Les Saisies, Crest Voland et al) (Via Le Dauphiné)

Although the number of British skiers going to the Alps is down by a quarter since 2007/8, the market for indoor and outdoor recreational slopes back home is growing - by 23% over the last three years, according to this report.  Meanwhile Ski Rossendale is planning an expansion of its activities.  (Via Ski Club GB & PlanetSki)

September will see the verdict on the "British ski hosting" saga, which is a key test case. The Ski Club of Great Britain has suspended its own ski hosting service for the moment, pending legal advice.  On the face of it, this case is not connected at all to that of the British ski instructor Simon Butler who is apparently planning his appeal.

Alpe d'Huez is back on the summer skiing map, bringing the number of French resorts open in the sumer back to four.

On the other side of the valley, beginners and timid skiers in Les 2 Alpes will be pleased to learn that a new easy slope is planned as an alternative to the current treacherous return routes home:  (Source: Aurélien de Pierrefeu)

WHITE-COLLAR HOOLIGAN OR NATIONAL HERO?

The latest development in the Simon Butler case sees the Megeve-based ski instructor given a 200 day jail sentence (or €30,000 fine) for working without the necessary documentation.  The case seems to cover not only Mr Butler, but the ski instructors he employs - who also do not qualify to teach on French slopes.  For some background, click here.

It's all unbelievably complicated, and this is seems to be one of the first times the rules have been tested in court.

Planet Ski's excellent round-up describes Simon Butler as "Marmite Man".  They quote an ESF director who calls him a "white collar hooligan".  On the other hand UKIP's Paul Nuttall condemns what he sees as "a blatant display of national discrimination by the French Government".

Boris Johnson is also outraged - and the whole controversy has not gone unnoticed in the French press - see, for example, these piece from Le Figaro and Le Parisien, and this report from France 3 News.

The British Association of Ski Instructors (BASI) is not supporting Mr Butler.  As The Independent asks: Is Simon Butler a national hero, or just a skier who breaks France's rules?

An appeal has been lodged, so the saga looks set to continue...

In a separate development, there is potential trouble brewing for the Ski Club of Great Britain, following the questioning of one of its hosts on the slopes of Val d'Isere last season - the Planet Ski report is here.

SKI INSTRUCTOR MATTERS: An update

The Ski Club of Great Britain's summer magazine Elevation provides an update on "the Megeve Simon Butler case."

It notes that:

• This is more complicated thatn "French v Brits".  For example:
• Butler is represented by Jean-Yves Lapeyrere, "who represetns several French outdoor sports enthusiasts and would like to see the rules on qualifiacations relaxed, not just for ski instructors, but for several summer sports such as windsurfing".
• Some British ski instructors who have achieved the highest level BASI qualification - Alpine Ski Level 4 ISTD - are worried about the implications for their pay and status if the rules are relaxed
• Many French instructors have not had to take the "Eurotest", as they qualified before 2004, or are still operating as trainees.  (The Eurotest involves skiing a slalom course within 18% of that of a professional racer for men and within 24% for women)
• A decision is expected on June 16

MEGEVE

Megeve is of course a very different beast to Les Arcs: a traditional village, much lower down, closer to  Mont Blanc, with mostly French visitors.

It is, apparently, France's first purpose-built ski resort, having been conceived in the 1920s as an alternative to St Moritz.

The resort has been in the news recently, following the arrest of British ski instructor Simon Butler earlier in the season.

For Tarentaise-bound skiers, it's a good option for a day's exploration on the way to or from Geneva.  There are various ski areas to choose from.  La Princesse gondola is deemed to be one of the most convenient, with a big car park just off the road from Sallanches. 

We missed the turning, however, and ended up at Rochebrune, just above the town. There is a handy car park there, with direct access to the pistes.  Although I wouldn't fancy my chances of getting a space there during peak holiday periods.

There's enough on Rochebrune to occupy yourself for a day - the runs are reasonably long, and the restaurants numerous.  We had a good welcome at La Babouche, where the prices (€19.90 for an entrecote frites) are a little higher than Tarentaise levels, but certainly not Courchevel-like.

No ski resort has bad views, but those in Megeve are, I think it's fair to say, some way above average:

The view from Rochebrune

THE MEGEVE ARRESTS: Points of View

In what may perhaps be one of the season's more dramatic headlines, we are informed this week that "there's a war going on in the French Alps".  This follows on from the "British ski hosting ban" case, which awaits an appeal at a court in Chambery this spring.

The outrage centres on the arrest of Simon Butler and six of his colleagues in Megeve. Here's the PlanetSki overview.

It's not a new debate, indeed the specific controversy surrounding Simon Butler skiing has been going on for years.  Ten years, in fact, according to Le Dauphiné.

This latest news saw Boris Johnson take to the Telegraph to ask "what kind of system is it that allows French buses on the streets of London but forbids English (sic) ski instructors on the slopes of the French Alps?"

Meanwhile, UKIP's Paul Nuttall made a speech in the European Parliament declaring the whole thing to be a "disgrace", citing an understanding with EU Commissioner Barnier which has apparently now been broken by the French authorities.

And on Wednesday's Today Programme: MEP Emma McClarkin app says the "EU should take urgent action", and went on to have a meeting with the said Commissioner Barnier.

The subsequent statement from Mr Barnier's office plays a rather straight bat, suggesting he may not quite agree with Mr Nuttal's understanding of his position.  It says that "suggesting the Single Market does not work for ski instructors is wrong", while also pointing out that his office has received complaints and is investigating.

As ever, there are two sides to every story.  Here's Linley Lewis, Director of Basecamp Ski and Snowboard who declaries that "to call this "anti-British" is ludicrous".  The current French set-up was developed to deal with the problem of under-qualified French ski instructors, he says.

What appears to make France extra-tricky for would-be instructors is that, in addition to BASI Level 4, you need to past the Euro Test, which is based on being able to race very fast down a slalom course.

BASI itself does not appear particularly impressed with all the hoo-ha, and states curtly that "factual content does not always make good copy".  They provide a useful guide to their understanding of the qualifications required to work in France, and say they will update members as and when the situation changes.

The "War Zone": Megeve, January 2014

THE TOP 50: According to L'Equipe

L'Equipe magazine published its league table of the Top 50 resorts in France on 24 November.  Scroll through the pictures of the Top 25 resorts to see the full classement.

In a way it's not that controversial, as it covers just about all the resorts, although a number of the smaller ones, like Géradmer in the Vosges, have found it useful for their PR efforts.

Ste-Foy (in the background) doesn't make the Top 50
Villaroger (foreground) is part of 9th-placed Les Arcs

Once the scores on quite a wide range of criteria are added up, the winner is.....
La Plagne.  

It only seems to fall down on two things: cross-country skiing and fancy restaurants.

And it beats local rival Les Arcs for having a halfpipe, facilities for families, sports facilities and having "villages de charme".

The other resorts in the top ten are Val d'Isere, Chamonix, Les Menuires, Megeve, Méribel, Tignes, Val Thorens and Les Arcs.

So, no surprises there, but it seems slightly odd to see Flaine at No 26, La Rosiere at No 30 and Valmorel at No 44.

Of course these league tables are most certainly an art rather than a science.  For example, Alpes magazine places Serre Chevalier as No 1 in its "well-being and relaxation" league table and Alpe d'Huez as No 1 for "Le Grand Ski" and "Extreme Glisse".

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION: Property Prices in the Alps

Although the season has started well, the ski industry has most certainly not been immune from the financial crisis.  Last year was just about OK for France and Austria, with Switzerland faring badly - more here.

This week Les Echos published a survey of the latest property market trends across the northern French Alps.

Bargain basement? Arc 1800

The headlines include:

• A slowdown in sales.  Prices aren't tumbling, but buyers should be able to negotiate.  Recent tax changes haven't helped
• The resorts in good locations with the right accommodation are doing OK
• Big differences, even within a relatively small area.  The price per m2, for example ranges from 1,911€ in an Arc 2000 studio, to €13.108 in a larger pad up the road in Val d'Isere
• The old 1970s flats are not in vogue - indeed there is a movement among some proprietères to join two apartments together to form one larger, more attractive space. "Those with the money are looking for big apartments or chalets for 10-20 people", says M. Le Notaire.  He also notes that prices in Morzine, Avoriaz and Les Gets have been rising, although they remain cheaper than the 3 Vallées and Chamonix 
• The other tip is to invest in areas close to the ski areas - for example in the attractive villages of St-Jean-de-Sixt or Manigod rather than Le Grand Bornand or La Clusaz
• Year-on-year prices are quoted (see below), but don't seem to tally with the overall story, and look on the volatile side.  For example, why would prices be rising in Morzine and falling in Les Gets?

The league table (in € per m2) is as follows (% change in the year to 31 Aug 2012 in brackets):

• Courchevel 1850: 11,170 (-5)
• Val d'Isère village: 7,357 (+2)
• Méribel village: 8,327 (n/a)
• Megeve: 7,262 (+9)
• Méribel Mottaret: 6,667 (+10)
• La Clusaz: 5,333 (+3)
• Courchevel 1650: 5,293 (n/a)
• Chamonix: 5,049 (+1)
• Les Gets: 4,816 (-7)
• Morzine: 4,711 (+13)
• Tignes Val Claret: 4,447 (+2)
• Avoriaz: 4,356 (-1)
• Tignes Le Lac: 4,333 (-7)
• Le Grand Bornand: 4,249 (-5)
• Valloire: 4,028 (no change)
• Arc 1800: 3,333 (+13)
• La Plagne: 3,280 (-7)
• Arc 1600: 3.169 (+9)
• Arc 2000: 2,046 (-13)

For a good guide to what's out there, follow @FrenchSkiHomes: website here.

THE SEASON SO FAR...

Although temperatures have warmed up things over the last week or so, the season has started well, with snow conditions good or better in most French resorts.

La Rosiere from Clocheret lift, Les Arcs

For a good overview of some of the snow depths in key resorts, click here.

And to look in a little more detail at your favourite resort, you have the strangely addictive www.snoweye.com at your disposal.

Nightmare start to the season goes to La Giettaz in the Aravis.  The two new chairlifts planned for this season did not open in time for the Christmas and New Year holidays...

In Les Arcs, there's not too much new to report, although the upmarket Edenarc development is continuing its slow move up the slopes.

Les Arcs is of course one of the many resorts whose lifts are controlled by the giant Compagnie des Alpes, and they have declared war on the so-called lits froids, and plans to buy up ageing apartments ready for renting out or re-sale.  Les 2 Alpes, Serre Chevalier and Les Menuires are also on the hit list here.

At La Plagne, there is much change at Plagne Centre in terms of both lifts and an upgraded shopping centre: see www.perso-laplagne.fr for regular updates.

And there are more developments on the way....

Further up the Tarentaise, La Rosière will truly be a Premiership resort when 40kms of new lifts open in 2016/17.

Meanwhile, €140m of investment is going into 10 new lifts at Courchevel and La Tania; more here.

Away from the Tarentaise, Avoriaz is udergoing a significant makeover.  Again we see a move towards bigger apartments.  In contrast to Les Arcs, the original architect is still overseeing things.

At the other end of the spectrum, Saint-Hugues in the Chartreuse is up and running, with its bargain €10 day pass offering something completely different.

FRENCH SKI RESORTS: THE PREMIERSHIP (REVISITED)

28 July 2013: for a 2013/14 update click here.

Here's an update on the 2011/12 French Ski Resorts: The Premiership league table.  The sad and geeky question is: if your favourite resort were a top-tier football team, which would it be?

The big headache for me is Manchester City.  Last time it was twinned with Tignes:

Man City = Tignes

Lots of investment; lifts now arguably superior to those of its neighbour across the mountain.  Clearly on the up.  Still lacks that je ne sais quoi.

In many ways this description still stands.  But...it's just that Tignes, like the Man City of old, has character, even though it may look a bit shabby around the edges.  It's where the real skiers go, rather than those show-offs over in Val d'Isere.  Etc.  But now that Man City can have whatever they want, whenever they want, the comparison feels slightly less appropriate.  I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt, but if it carries on like this, they will be twinned with Gstaad.....

Wolves (2 Alpes), Blackburn (Avoriaz) and Bolton (Valmorel) were all relegated. I think each of these resorts still deserve their place, so they have been replaced with Southampton, West Ham and  Reading.

Kassam Stadium, Oxford.
Set to join the Premier League in 2015/16,
once all the necessary pieces are in place....

Man City = Tignes

Lots of investment; lifts now arguably superior to those of its neighbour across the mountain.  Clearly on the up.  Losing its character?

Man Utd = Val d’Isere
A classic resort; famous around the world, consistently performs at a high level.  Popular with rich people from The South.

Arsenal = Meribel

Strong Anglo-French links, not as good as thinks it is but is still very good indeed.  Will never go out of fashion.

Tottenham = Les Arcs

Has had its ups and downs over the years, but a steady transformation over last decade - with slow lifts/players now largely a thing of the past.  By no means perfect, but can mix with big league.

Newcastle = Val Thorens

Big stadium, with great atmosphere and famous nightlife.   Improving in recent years, and can give the others a run for their money 7 days out of 10.  When the sun shines it’s great, but on a cold day...

Chelsea = Courchevel

Money talks; the domain of well-heeled Russians.  Oddly characterless.  Less affluent folk are scattered in distant suburbs away from the centre.

Everton = La Plagne

Was one of the "Big Five" in the 1980s, but no longer.  Shrewd management has papered over the cracks (slow lifts, short runs).  Had a good season last year.

Liverpool = Chamonix.

Fancies itself as the home of mountaineering.  Which in a way it is.  Has a tradition, character, real sense of place that everyone respects - fans all want to visit at least once...

Fulham = Megeve

Location and proximity to nice restaurants is just as important as the skiing.

West Brom = La Clusaz

Quietly goes about its business with little attention from abroad.  Unlikely to rise any further.

Swansea = Isola 2000

Somewhat remote geographically from rest of the league.  Was briefly in the top flight during the 1980s.  Surprisingly good when you see it in action.

Norwich = Serre Chevalier

Bit of a yo-yo resort between Prem and Championship.  Another remote location.  But has strong support, good foundations and real character.  And the food...

Sunderland = Alpe d'Huez

Great stadium, all the way to 3,300m; a World Cup venue.  It’s south-facing, though and therefore can lose interest towards the end of the season.

Stoke City = Les Sybelles

Has no discernible centre; a modest kind of a place.  Has made its mark on the Premiership without anyone really noticing how far they've come.  Top lifts often shut due to wind.

Wigan Ath = Areches/Beaufort

Few people go there, but those who do enjoy the welcome (and the cheese pies).

Aston Villa = Flaine

Has lots of support; good all-rounder and the infrastructure to mix it with the big league.  Could pack more of a punch if they ever get their act together.

QPR = Les Gets

Not the biggest but there's money there.  Struggles to last a full season, but in 2011/12 stayed open (just about) well into the Spring.

Reading = Valmorel

Not a "natural" in terms of the Premiership, but steady investment in recent years and new Russian investments means they could well hold their own.

Southampton = Les 2 Alpes

The Beautiful South.  Lots going for it, but lacks strength in depth (narrow ski area).

West Ham Utd = Avoriaz

Both really should be in the Premiership given their location, fan base, history etc.  They both lack consistency, but let's see....

AND MORE IMPORTANTLY….

Oxford United = Chamrousse

On the Grenoble Road, big university town boasting great ski area.  Was briefly in the top flight; Jean-Claude Killy once skied there.  Has strong following from the locals - on one rainy day in 2010, their numbers reached 33,000....

Barnet = Ste Foy

Where the ski instructors (aka Arsenal and Spurs fans) go on their day off.  Only a few lifts but packs in lots of action.  Noteworthy gradients.  Local authority resisting its bid to expand.

THE BUSINESS OF SKIING: How to Expand....

There's a conference this weekend all about the future of the ski industry - covered in Le Dauphine.

Here are some of the key points - with a few extra links where I've been able to find them.

1.  The space available for skiing can't be extended, limited by the existence of the national parks and the growing environmental lobby.

2. The days of mega-expansion are gone.  These days it's more about renewing the lifts, rationalising the existing ski areas, investing in artificial snow, and making sure the resorts can show they've been taking steps to reduce their impact on the environment.

3.  In a mature market, it's now about share of wallet - ie winning market share from other resorts.

4.  In the Southern Alps, the big recent debate has been all about expanding upwards, to the 3000m barrier.  It looks like Orcieres has given up on the Pic de Rochebrune, but Risoul is still dreaming of setting up a freeride area close to 3000m.

5.  There are more concrete plans now to do just this at Montgenevre, which is now making active plans for the Chaberton project - including four new chairlifts and 35km of pistes.  This has prompted controversy about the environmental impact.  For the resort, which doesn't have a particularly impressive vertical descent, this is all about competing against the rival Italian resorts to which it's linked by the Milky Way area.

6.   Similar situation over at La Rosiere, which is also looking to expand to close to 3000m in the Mont Valaisan area, again in a bit to make sure it compares well with its Italian neighbour over the border in La Thuile.

La Rosiere, looking back towards Villaroger and Arc 2000

7.   Size matters:  In the Mont-Blanc area, l’espace Évasion boasts 440 km of pistes.  However, they lack the link in the chain which would enable skiers to travel between Les Contamines and St Gervais.  Contamines has been suffering due to its isolation and a new lift to make the link betwen the two is planned for 2013.

8.  Things are moving also on the Savoie/Haute Savoie border.  In the Espace Diamant (see report on Crest Voland here), Les Saisies is planning to expand its area into the combe de Ballasta.  Its neighbour Praz-sur-Arly is looking at a new link with Megeve and the Espace Evasion.  With nearly 650km of pistes, the two areas would be hot on the heels of the Portes du Soleil.

9.  There's not one of these projects which hasn't caused controversy.  At Collet d'Alevard, works on the Clapier chairlift have stopped.  Similarly at Ste-Foy-Tarentaise plans to put 3 new charlifts into a new area at the combe du Clou have been put on ice.

10. Coming back to the issue of linking ski stations - the expectations are that they will increase revenues by anywhere between 10-35%.  The Les 2 Alpes - Alpe d'Huez link may or may not happen (for the moment, the resorts are only at the stage of spending €20,000 to study the idea).  If it doesn't, it may join other big schemes which were planned at one point, but which are now pretty dormant - for example La Clusaz - Grand Bornand and Valfrejus - Valloire.

FRENCH SKI RESORT LEAGUE TABLES (3): "Bien-etre et detente"

The final league table published by Alpes magazine looked at "bien-etre et detente" - again the translation "well-being and relaxation" feels a bit cumbersome.

Anyway, what the authors said they were looking for are:


...resorts for whom skiing is not everything, places where it's just as important to be close to nature, or simply to relax.  We've chosen resorts situated below 1500 metres, where it's the way of life, often symbolised by the small village and its clocktower, that is sought after - a certain "authenticity"...

The resorts were rated under the following categories:

Kms of snow-shoe walking trails
Sport
* Dog sledding
* Toboggan tracks
* Organised snow-shoeing activities
Whether or not they have a spa
Historic events
* Evening presentations etc
* Visits to the farm (!)
* Museums
Culture/activities
* Art galeries
* Markets
* Concerts
* Cinema
Other activities (eg guided tour of station, thermal baths)
Price of lift pass
Price of accommodation

And the winner is....Serre-Chevalier...which also came in 7th on the Grand Ski league tables, which makes it probably The Best All-Round Resort in France?  I've only been in summer, so can't comment.

The full listing includes some familiar names - and indeed all offer "Grand Ski" as well, in the form of a local area of 100kms plus:
1.  Serre-Chevalier (scores consistently: the ski-joering/horsey things and thermal-type baths seem to have won it)
2.  Megeve (would have won but marked down on price...)
3.  Chatel (the judges like the "famille-montagne" badge; again, marked down on price)
4. Valmorel
5. Saint-Gervais
6. Combloux
7. La Clusaz
8. Chamonix
9. Crest-Voland (click here for more on CV)
10. Brides-les-Bains
11. Saint-Martin-de-Belleville
12. Meribel