Peisey-Vallandry used to be a bit of a backwater, tucked away at the far end of Les Arcs' skiing, with some brilliant red runs served by ancient chairlifts.
Today it's most certainly on the up - the Dutch are particularly in love with it, and the arrival of the Vanoise Express link has been followed by more developments, including a Club Med and some new lifts.
It's probably not the place for beginners - the nursery slopes are good, but at the top of the chairlifts, which is hardly ideal. And there is much cheaper accommodation available in Les Arcs. Getting to know the local place names: Landry, Plan-Peisey, Peisey-Nancroix, Vallandry....it's something of a challenge. Minor niggles aside, it certainly has a lot going for it.
1. The Climb Up
For cyclists, this is a not particularly well-known route. Most people take the main road to Les Arcs and remind themselves of where Indurain came to grief in 1996. This is a much tougher climb, with more hairpins, steeper gradients and a nightmare last 3kms. You can continue the torment by cycling onwards via Arc 1800 and 1600 to the savage climb that runs from Comborciere to Arc 2000. In winter, you will need chains if it snows. No question!
2. The Nancroix valley
This is the gateway to the Vanoise national park from this part of the Tarentaise. There are loads of beautiful walks in summer, and in winter it's a mecca for ski de fond and biathlon.
3. An Old Village
The ski resorts of Plan Peisey and Vallandry are basically new, and have been developed since the 1980s. But there is a genuinely old and characterful village of Peisey-Nancroix just below, at 1300m, and served by a small bucket lift. Together with Villaroger, this is really the only rustic option on the Les Arcs side of Paradiski.
4. The New Lift
Suddenly, Peisey is at the centre of things - if you do want to cover the La Plagne-Les Arcs circuit, this is the place to do it.
5. Flattering Red Runs
There is a pretty extensive selection of red runs served by the three main chairlifts - they tend to be fairly quiet, and are great after a snowfall. Can be icy lower down, mind, and beware the lower section of the blue Retour Peisey run - probably the hardest blue in the resort!
6. La Combe
A wonderful red run away from the lifts. With a guide you can ski to....
Also a great summer excursion - for example it's about half an hour downhill from the top of the Vallandry lift. Or you can take the easy walk from Peisey. Or you can take a much longer walk from the top of the Transarc. Which brings us to:
8. 1000m of descent
The run from the top of the Transarc, at 2600m, to the Hotel de la Vanoise, and a nice lunch, is a minor classic.
9. New lifts
With the advent of the new Grizzly lift a few years ago (built to serve the Club Med development), and the arrival of Le Derby (the key link to Arc 1800/2000), queues are now rarely an issue.
10. A local website
www.peisey-info.com complements the official site nicely!